Based in Geneva, Akrivia finishes and makes watches the traditional manner. The Tourbillon Regulator is the most recent addition to its collection, powered by the in-house AK-04 movement. The time is displayed regulator style, with the hours from the sub-dial in 12 o’clock along with the minutes around the central axis. The aperture at six o’clock shows the one minute tourbillon which includes an unusual balance wheel with four curved spokes with adjustable weights. Since Rexhepi counts among his past companies Patek Philippe and F.P. Journe, haute horlogerie building and finishing are near his heart. The expression “akrivia” is a Greek term which means adherence to religious law at the Eastern Orthodox Church. Adherence to the customs of fine watchmaking are obvious from the symmetry and decoration of the hand-wound movement. For instance the calibre has two third wheels which mirror each other, for symmetry as seen from the back. The case is 43mm in diameter and made of steel, with bevelled lugs that are meant to echo the ending of the movement parts. Assembling a complicated watch is all about options. Complex watches are more controlled, including a selection of complications which work well together. Akrivia is performing the complication game directly with their latest watch, the Tourbillon Chiming Jump Hour.
Because of this, Rexhep Rexhepi believes this version as the cornerstone of the horological foundation of AkriviA.The Tourbillon Regulator too is evidenced by a minimalist layout, where the decorations are concealed in a subtle manner in the small details of the watch.The wide lugs are chamfered in a style representing the bevelling on the calibre; the grey dial features a “polished-matt” finish that’s both innovative and classic. While it remembers the sandblasted bridges of pocket watches, the Akrivia Instagram Replica “polished-matt” effect differs from habitual sandblasting concerning its way of program: that the crushed stone is mixed with vegetable oil and applied utilizing a new hand-crafted technique.The regulator-type arrangement of the dial has the hour at 12 o’clock, an imposing moments hand at the middle and a small seconds hand at six o’clock on top of this tourbillon.The latter is composed of a 13.7mm carriage revolving in one minute and casing a Breguet balance-spring connected to the “AkriviA” balance wheel oscillating at the rate of 21,600 vibrations per hour. The 100 hours of freedom is provided by one barrel.
Like any parent will tell you, one of the greatest joys in life is watching your child mature into a unique personality. The development of a brand is a similar ontogeny that must be just as exciting and intimidating for its owner. It seems strange to consider that the global behemoths likes Rolex, Omega, or Cartier ever had a first watch. We take their universally recognised ranges for granted, as if the brand sprung fully formed from the mind of its founder. This was not the case. The first is important, sure, but the second, and the third, and the fourth… It takes time for consumers to understand a brand, to pigeon-hole it, to digest the message and see it realised in many rather than just one piece. With the Akrivia Tourbillon Regulator, the latest watch in this fast-growing family, it is just about possible to say that the DNA of this small brand has blossomed into a pleasingly homogeneous range.
There are two main things we look for in range consistency: a unique case shape and an identifiable dial arrangement, pattern, or texture. When you put these two things together and just tinker with the complications displayed within this format, the way in which the same old complications are displayed, or the mechanism powering the watch, you can feel confident that your brand will become known by consumers. Rexhep Rexhepi has scored on both fronts. His matte-polished dials are a thing of artisanal beauty – a muted finish achieved by painstaking labour, it could barely be a more appropriate metaphor for class if it tried.
Some may find it dull (although it might be a good idea to reserve absolute judgement until it’s been seen in person), but it is definitely unusual. I am a huge fan of circular grained dials, as seen on some of Thomas Prescher’s pieces. AkriviA watches take bare-metal backgrounds to the next level. For me, it is a similar, although much more visually appropriate, technique to black polishing in terms of the time and skill it takes to perfect.
The AkriviA Tourbillon Regulator’s simple chapter ring adds depth to an otherwise plain dial. Dots for minute markers as opposed to lines certainly make the dial feel more hand crafted, probably because they are a much easier and satisfyingly profound shape to produce using traditional tools such as a tower or lathe-mounted drill and a dividing head. What is not in anyway easy to produce, however, are the black-polished bevels seen on the sub-dials. Black polishing this kind of angled surface must have taken extreme patience, dead-eye precision, and a lot of trial and error.
Judging by the standard of the movement and the complexity of the case, we can state that AkriviA did listen to the majority of details. But, real wearability often slides down the list of priorities in regards to creating such luxury pieces and thus the strongest point of the watch wasn’t the motion or the building of the case but wearing comfort.As always, it’s easier said than done, but in this case the watch fit snugly and comfortably on my ( too small) wrist.) That, primarily, is due to the look of the case and case back, and the way the straps are incorporated into the contour. It is rare for a watch of the size – 43mm in diameter and over 50mm lug to lug – to feel as if it was not there, but thanks to the curved form of the situation that is how it felt from the moment I put it on my wrist.One item I was not so sure about – before having the chance to find the watch in the metal – was that the dial layout. For me it looked like a stylized picture of an owl and I could not determine whether this was deliberate nor if I really liked it. Interestingly enough, when I watched the watch and I tried it, this image disappeared and that I could focus on the fantastic number of flawless particulars and an overall image that I could best describe as very youthful and fresh.Surely, in several ways this watch adheres to conventional standards, but since I had it on my wrist I felt that it might plausibly be a more fun – but still high quality – companion. It had been perfectly legible, all its components proudly wore their pristine finish, and of course there was the tourbillon in the center of focus, turning with its own well-known, conventional beauty and every drop of modern ostentation.
But these are the things we have come to expect from Rexhep Rexhepi’s brand. That in itself is a triumph. To so insistently launch a brand at such a level of craftsmanship is a testament to his ambition. One must question, though, how much can one man do? Given the volume and complexity of his current ranges, it seems unlikely the young protégé who leaned at the collective knees of Patek Philippe’s maestros with whom he began his apprenticeship aged 14, does all the work himself. Even if he is forced to delegate some of the responsibilities to others in the present or near future, it is clear that his vision shines through in every component. Even the parts he must invariably outsource are of a high quality and produced by esteemed companies in their own right.
And when we talk of components, how can we overlook that fantastically complicated case? Thirty parts go into housing Rexhepi’s delightfully symmetrical movement. He’s succeeded in creating a consistent case silhouette, but I must admit I love and loathe it in the same breath. I think you should always ask three things of a watch case: Is it identifiable; is it simple; and will it last? The first question is easy enough to answer. It’s also probably the most important. Simplicity is key, because silhouettes stick better than superficial ornamentation (for an example of a case that gets its identifiability from its surface complexity, think Linde Werdelin – then stick a light behind it and tell me what brand it is).
Thirdly – and this one is my number one personal gripe with watch case designers – will a watchmaker be able to refinish it, or is it only good for a few weeks out of the box? There are loads of things that can shorten the lifespan of a case: Coatings that can chip or wear, finishes that require highly specialised equipment or cost too much to make touch-ups viable, materials that chip or deform irreparably, or angles that are unreachable by any logical means.
Now, that we began speaking about the dial it’s a whole other topic. To start with, the motion of the watch was designed and created by Rexhep along with his friends also based in Geneva, the hometown of AkriviA. What’s interesting about it is the combination of a in-house tourbillon escapement (that includes letter Much like the layout) and the mono-pusher chronograph. Monopushers, moves at which the chronograph function is triggered, stopped and reset all by pressing one button can be also quite seldom exhibited on the ‘dial’ aspect of the watch, and are hidden contrary to the model. This makes the watch look very cool when the chronograph is utilized, as you can definitely see the mechanism working as well as interacting with all the tourbillon cage!The tourbillon (exactly what I find most striking about this view) is done in ceramic and steel, weighing just 0.45 grams, and performing 60 second rotations, replacing the primary seconds hand. I really really like that idea since the chronograph second now doesn’t have to be that colossal hand drifting in the big dial, and can easily be cancel, without being mixed for the regular moments. The moments of the chrono are situated at 2 o’clock in another subdial, counting every30 minutes. And whenever the pusher is activated you may observe the motion work at 12 and 4 o’clock, which can be skeletonized parts of the shameful PVD-coated dial.At 9 that you may see the power reserve indicator of this watch, which is said to be working for 100 hours, making the chronograph work endure for 72 hours. The opinion ends up being tasteful and at precisely the same time functional, though to be honest I am only a lover of skeleton chronographs since I can observe the movement at work, otherwise I don’t see the chrono work be quite needed at a daily life, unless you are an athlete (but why would an athlete buy an tourbillon, leather strap watch?) . That fact aside the watch is amazing, and very comfortable on the wrist.
The case of the Akrivia Price Replica Tourbillon Regulator is identifiable from the crowd and is also identifiable as a member of its family. The case can be refinished, but only because it is anything but simple. I prefer it this way than no chance of refinishing at all, but 30 pieces is an awful lot for a case (that’s more than half the total components of a standard Swatch Original – even though that’s a quartz, that’s still a crazy stat). That said, he satisfies the first and third of my own personal criteria, so I have to give it a thumbs up, even if assembling each one would drive me insane.
I will finish this review with a piece that I’m especially found of, because it’s two of my favourite complications, the jump hour plus a stunning complication.The 43 mm stainless steel case follows to aesthetics of another models describes above. The dial, crafted out of mat-polished black steel is dominated by 13.7 millimeter tourbillon using a 60 minutes spinning. When the minutes hand reaches the 12 o’clock position, with the circle in its base perfectly covering the hour window, the Tourbillon Chiming Jump Hour comes alive to show it all can do: the numeral in the hour window will immediately change along with the striking mechanism get activated.The push button at three o’clock functions to change the mechanism to quiet mode which is indicated to the right side of the hammer at 12 o’clock. As with all the other Acrivia Klocka Replica versions, the hand-wound calibre powering the Tourbillon Chiming Jump Hour obtained a great deal of focus when it comes to finishing, done by Rexhepi and his team using traditional techniques: mirror polishing, guide design and 56 inward angles.The Tourbillon Chiming Jump Hour also is competing in at GPHG 2015, in the Dramatic category. Who would like to talk about precision? Since that’s our today’s main topic — with the name of still not too famous new brand on the market ‘Akrivia’ that at early Greek indeed means precision or precision I will make a whole hands-on inspection of the first creation — that the tourbillon/chronograph.
Now, all that successful branding talk aside, let’s look at the in-house movement that has been employed for this AkriviA Tourbillon Regulator. It is a 21,600vph tourbillon with a discreet striking mechanism, a 12 o’clock-located hours sub-dial, a centrally-mounted minute hand, and a nicely blued, generously counterpoised seconds hand set atop a 13.70mm tourbillon cage. The cage itself weighs in at 0.36g and completes one revolution every minute. The balance wheel held within the cage measures 11.60mm across and features an inertia poising system (which is much neater for a balance wheel contained within the confines of a tourbillon cage). Pleasingly, the AkriviA Tourbillon Regulator has 100 hours of power reserve, which helps keep all 229 components ticking away for more than four days off the wrist.
Something less common about its structure is the outside gear around the tourbillon, as revealed by the extra-large opening at 6 o’clock. Allow me to clarify. On the image above, at the movement’s four o’clock place, you will observe that there is a little, disengaged equipment, just millimeters away from the big external gear round the tourbillon. Its purpose is that upon starting the chronograph, this equipment will mesh with the large equipment round the tourbillon and hence, through the pair of gears laid out on the ideal hand, and the chronograph will start measuring 60 seconds at the 2 o’clock sub-par and thirty minutes in the 10 o’clock sub dial. It is a rare treat to see such an uncommon solution, not to mention it being exposed to the dial side.The case has a somewhat complex construction comprised of three chief parts. To begin with, there is a cylindrical casing for the movement which, as I had been told, could be lifted out easily after removing a few screws onto the case back. Then there is an outside “shell” which surrounds the movement’s cylinder and extends in the lugs. Initially this piece seems to have a rather simple curved shape to it, but after further review I found the several methods and directions that the situation was really curved to create a silhouette that first reminded me of those Curvex cases seen from Franck Muller. Finally, you will find two extra inserts, one on every side.These help to create an elegant tonneau-shape for your case, although the one in the three o’clock position also serves as a crown-protector. As Rexhep explained, these three big components can be produced from different materials and be combined (from the owner!) In various manners. Although that may not be quite as simple as it seems, I know I would really like to test that and make decent use of the skills I acquired as an infant LEGO enthusiast.
The Akrivia Automation Private Limited Replica Tourbillon Regulator actually looks bigger in the press photos than it is in real life. It only measures 43mm at its widest point, which is barely over average for modern standards. The 30-part case is water resistant to 30 meters, has front and back sapphire crystals with anti-reflective treatment, is made of stainless steel and is 12.90mm thick. The strap is hand-sewn blue leather and affixed by a hand engraved deployant clasp sporting the AkriviA logo.
Consequently, once we summarize what AkriviA’s first watch provides, we’re left with a combination of fine craftsmanship, the clear presence of motivation to create something new, and the conflict of the motivation with the rigorous rules of luxury watch making. For a debuting bit, the Tourbillon Monopusher Chronograph is a surprisingly complex and undoubtedly well-made offering, yet I expect in the future they will have the ability to discover, and more publicly express, their own fashion – while still building in their currently possessed strong points. The Tourbillon Monopusher Chronograph is going to be limited to just ten pieces in five and steel bits in red gold with prices of $160,000 and $195,000. Since the company was established back in 2012, AkriviA has continuously proven itself to be distinctively different from the rest in terms of its craftsmanship and command. This may be clearly seen in its own creations like the Tourbillon Monopusher Chronograph along with the Tourbillon Regulateur, all uniquely different with their own characteristics.At Baselworld 2017, AkriviA introduced the much expected AK-06 which are the first non-tourbillon watch of the AkriviA collection. The AK-06 was motivated by Rexhep’s belief that among the most romantic moments is the action of winding up the watch, the component when human energy is “given” to the motion, bringing it into life.In order to improve that feeling, the AK-06 was created in a way that exposes most if not all the mechanical components to the consumer, making it visually attractive especially when you start winding the watch to life. Also, exposing the movement entirely would put a great emphasis on great craftsmanship to guarantee all details out of the polishing of fittings to the anglage polishing of filed edges are well taken care of.
Not only does the AkriviA Tourbillon Regulator match its three older brothers in style, so it does in functionality. The hour chime (seen in the above photo at the top of the movement, just above the ratchet wheel and two neat plaques displaying series number and the words “hand made”) can be silenced by the monopusher mounted at 3 o’clock. I am hugely impressed by Rexhepi’s commitment to his brand’s aesthetic. This is the fourth instalment in a watch family that is rivalling the football-playing Mannings for stand-out performers. The case shape is maintained unless deviation from the norm is absolutely necessary, and even then, he has modified it only slightly. Great vision; great design.
What remains to be seen, though, is how many more watches can Rexhepi churn out before this gets old? He’s already shown us his clever eye for diversification, but can it go much further before familiarity breeds contempt? If that’s what he’s got in mind, shifting a few of these units first would probably help! The Akriveia Tx Replica Tourbillon Regulator has a price of CHF125,000. akrivia.com