Chanel is arguably more famous for its women handbags and fragrances, but last year, Chanel made headlines for releasing a new men’s watch called the Monsieur de Chanel. By all reports, it is a great watch. I love the styling and it even has an in-house motion designed by the exceptionally gifted Romain Gauthier. For 2017, Chanel is introducing a new variant that comes in a platinum case and a stunning black grand feu enamel dial. Gorgeous, that’s 1 word that I never thought I’d use to describe a Chanel watch.For readers who follow business news carefully, you’d likely know by now that Peter Speake-Marin is departing his brand new brand. What most readers probably don’t know is that Peter has actually ceased being involved in the company side of all their brand for a couple of years now and this announcement largely marks the conclusion of his engagement with layout and observe development. In fact, Peter has continually sold bets of his company over the last couple of years and his partner and investor, the Rosnoblet family, will now continue operating the Speake-Marin brand new. The story goes that a very important and anonymous buyer purchased the watch in a shop in London and had every intention of gifting the watch into the Russian chief. So much so that the store recorded Putin’s complete name “Mr. Vladimir Vladimirovic Putin” about the watch’s certificate of origin. However, the Kremlin has since denied any link of Putin for this watch, leaving many to wonder about the validity of this link. So who’s telling the truth? Does this view have anything to do with Putin at all?
In the world of quartz watches, the Japanese reign supreme. After all, it was a Japanese firm – Seiko – which gave the world its first quartz watch. Aside from Seiko, Citizen is another one of the world’s biggest manufacturers of quartz and digital watches. First introduced around 1995, these are solar-powered watches which had solar cells hidden under the dial, permitting them to have a cleaner and more pleasing look. Last year, Citizen declared a new breakthrough Eco-Drive watch aptly called the Eco-Drive One, that will be only 2.98mm thick, which makes it the world’s thinnest solar-powered watch. Here’s our review of this technology marvel.Only a handful of brands can lay claim to having been around the moon. Omega is possibly the most famous of them all, but so has Bulova. Even with Omega being the official opinion of for missions to the moon, that didn’t stop astronauts from wearing extra watches of the own. One of these watches to make its way to the moon was a chronograph by Bulova worn by astronaut Dave Scott. Bulova, eager to impress upon the world its space credentials, released a modern replica of this opinion that astronaut Dave Scott wore into the moon this past year. For 2017, they are updating that modern reissue with a new darker and stealthier version which you see here.
Released in October of 2016 in platinum, there is now a new version of this watch in 18K rose gold that was just released at the SIHH 2017. The new Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Chronograph Perpetual Calendar ref. 5000T/000R-B304 is an exceptional timepiece in 18K rose gold that is as pure as it gets in terms of design and unequivocal elegance. Equipped with the new in-house Vacheron Constantin Calibre 1142 QP and cased in a generous 43 mm, the newest grand complication from Vacheron Constantin combines the chronograph and the perpetual calendar. With its classic round case and elegant dark brown crocodile strap, this Chronograph Perpetual Calendar ref. 5000T embodies formal elegance with supreme mastery.
The new Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Chronograph Perpetual Calendar ref. 5000T iin 18K rose gold is the ultimate expression horological mastery. With its distinctive design codes reflected in each and every detail of its 43 mm stepped case, the new Traditionnelle Chronograph Perpetual Calendar ref. 5000T/000R-B304 features a fluted pattern on the rim of the case back and rectangular pushers.
Its silvered opaline dial features a grey railway minute track, a black tachymetric scale surrounding the dial and dauphine hands. The dial is extremely clean and easy to read, regardless of the amount of information that is packed into this watch. Reflecting the layout of 1940s Vacheron Constantin chronographs, the dial features running seconds indicator at 9 and a 30-minute chronograph register at 3 o’clock both distinguished by a circular-brushed ring with snailed center.
At 12 o’clock, three small apertures provide the day of the week, the month and the leap year information.
But what takes the center stage on this dial, is the hand-finished 22K rose gold moon phase indicator at 6 o’clock. Positioned in the center of a date counter, it provides a symbolic depiction of a moon face that is alternately smiling or melancholic, depending on the path of the Earth’s satellite.
Powering the new Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Chronograph Perpetual Calendar ref. 5000T is the new new in-house calibre 1142 QP with 324 parts and 21 jewels. This manual wound movement entirely designed and developed at Vacheron, replaces the previous 1141 QP. The new movement drives the perpetual calendar functions as well as the chronograph functions with a direct-drive seconds hands and 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, positioned opposite the small seconds at 9 o’clock. Beating at a frequency of 21,600 vph —3 Hz.— the movement offers a power reserve of 48 hours when fully wound. Fully visible through the display case back, this movement is extremely beautifully finished and a piece of horological architecture worthy of contemplating. The movement is so beautiful that this is one of those watches that could be worn inside out.
On the Wrist & Pricing
The new Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Chronograph Perpetual Calendar ref. 5000T in 18K rose gold is fitted with a hand stitched dark brown alligator leather strap secured by a matching 18K rose gold folding clasp. On the wrist, the watch wears extremely comfortably and true to its 43 mm size on a 7.25″ wrist. Elegant, understated and a true marvel of horology is the Traditionnelle Chronograph Perpetual Calendar ref. 5000T. A watch that ticks all the boxes of you like grand complications that combine the functionality of a chronograph with the convenience of a perpetual calendar. If you want to own one of the most impressive timepieces from Vacheron Constantin out there, look no further.
Sticker Price $150,000 USD. For more info on Vacheron Constantin click here.